The dance of green, purple, and sometimes red ribbons across the night sky has captivated humans for millennia. Indigenous peoples created myths around these celestial displays, scientists have studied their magnetic properties, and travelers journey thousands of miles hoping to witness their ephemeral beauty. As someone who has spent the past decade guiding aurora-seeking expeditions in Canada's Yukon Territory, I've had the privilege of sharing this natural wonder with hundreds of awestruck visitors. What follows is a guide to experiencing the northern lights in one of the world's premier viewing locations.
Understanding the Aurora Borealis
Before embarking on a northern lights expedition, it helps to understand what creates this magnificent phenomenon. The scientific explanation involves charged particles from the sun interacting with gases in Earth's atmosphere. When solar particles collide with oxygen and nitrogen at different altitudes, they release energy in the form of light—creating those mesmerizing curtains of color that dance across the sky.
The colors you see depend on which atmospheric gases are being excited, and at what altitude. Oxygen produces green and red light, while nitrogen creates blue and purple hues. The most common color is green, as oxygen is abundant in our atmosphere at the altitude where many auroral displays occur.
What many visitors don't realize before their first aurora experience is how dynamic these lights can be. In a single night, you might witness everything from a faint, static glow on the horizon to wildly moving ribbons and pulsating coronas that seem to rain down directly overhead. During periods of high solar activity, the display can become so bright that it casts shadows on the snow-covered ground.
Why the Yukon? The Northern Lights Geography
The ideal viewing locations for the northern lights form an oval-shaped ring around the Earth's magnetic poles, known as the "auroral oval." While places like Norway, Iceland, Alaska, and northern Russia all fall within this zone, Canada's Yukon Territory offers several unique advantages for aurora seekers.
First, the Yukon experiences exceptionally clear winter nights, with low humidity and minimal light pollution across vast stretches of wilderness. For photographers, these conditions create the perfect canvas for capturing the aurora and its reflection on pristine snow-covered landscapes and frozen lakes.
Second, unlike some northern destinations that experience weeks or months of complete darkness during winter, the Yukon's location provides a balance of adequate daylight for daytime activities while still offering long, dark nights for aurora viewing. Whitehorse, the territorial capital, averages 6-7 hours of daylight in December and January—enough time for dog sledding, snowshoeing, or exploring the town before your nighttime aurora watch begins.
Finally, the Yukon's accessibility sets it apart from many remote aurora viewing locations. Direct flights connect Whitehorse to Vancouver year-round, with winter connections to Frankfurt, Germany as well. Once you've arrived, well-maintained highways and a network of experienced guides make reaching prime viewing locations relatively straightforward, even in winter conditions.
When to Go: Timing Your Northern Lights Expedition
The aurora borealis occurs year-round, but it's only visible when the sky is sufficiently dark and clear. In the Yukon, the prime viewing season extends from late August through early April, with each period offering its own advantages.
Fall (Late August to October)
This "shoulder season" offers several unique benefits for aurora watchers:
- Milder temperatures, often above freezing during September
- Reflections of the lights on lakes before they freeze
- The possibility of capturing northern lights above fall foliage
- Fewer tourists compared to winter months
The main drawback to fall viewing is the shorter window of darkness each night, particularly in early September when you might need to stay up past midnight for truly dark skies.
Winter (November to March)
The "classic" northern lights season offers:
- The longest dark periods, sometimes 16+ hours per night
- Greatest probability of witnessing displays, simply due to more hours of darkness
- Snow-covered landscapes that reflect and enhance the auroral glow
- Combination opportunities with winter activities like dog sledding and snowshoeing
The challenge of winter viewing is, of course, the cold. Temperatures in the Yukon regularly drop to -20°C (-4°F) or lower between December and February. However, proper preparation makes these conditions manageable, and many visitors find that the pristine winter landscape adds to the magical quality of the experience.
Spring (Late March to Early April)
This brief window offers an excellent compromise:
- Moderating temperatures, often above -10°C (14°F)
- Still-snowy landscapes
- Dark enough for auroral viewing, but with longer daylight hours for other activities
- Historically high aurora activity around the spring equinox
Interestingly, scientists have observed that auroral activity often increases around the spring and fall equinoxes, though the exact mechanism for this pattern remains under study.
Where to Watch: Yukon's Prime Viewing Locations
While the northern lights can potentially be seen from anywhere in the Yukon on a clear night with strong auroral activity, certain locations consistently provide better viewing opportunities.
1. Lake Laberge
Made famous by Robert Service's poem "The Cremation of Sam McGee," this 50-kilometer-long lake about 50 minutes north of Whitehorse offers pristine viewing conditions. In early winter, before the lake completely freezes, you can capture stunning reflections of the aurora on the water's surface. Later in the season, the wide-open frozen expanse provides a 360-degree viewing platform with minimal light pollution.
2. Takhini Hot Springs
For those who can't bear the thought of standing in the cold for hours, the Takhini Hot Springs offer a uniquely comfortable aurora viewing experience. Imagine floating in steaming mineral waters while the northern lights dance overhead. The contrast between the -30°C air and 40°C water creates a surreal atmosphere, with steam rising around you as you gaze upward. The springs are located about 28 kilometers from Whitehorse.
3. Fish Lake
Just 15 minutes from downtown Whitehorse, Fish Lake provides excellent aurora viewing with minimal travel time. Its elevation (over 1,000 meters above sea level) places viewers slightly above any light pollution from the city. The lake is surrounded by low rolling hills that frame the sky beautifully for photographers.
4. Marsh Lake
About 45 minutes southeast of Whitehorse, Marsh Lake is part of the Southern Lakes region. Its location away from any communities ensures minimal light pollution, while the expansive lake surface provides unobstructed views of the sky. Several pullouts along the Alaska Highway allow for safe parking even in winter conditions.
5. Dawson City Region
For the adventurous traveler willing to journey further into the Yukon, the historic gold rush town of Dawson City offers exceptional aurora viewing combined with frontier culture. The Midnight Dome, a viewpoint above town, provides a panoramic platform for northern lights watching. At 67° north latitude, Dawson sits directly under the auroral oval, meaning displays often appear directly overhead rather than on the northern horizon.
Capturing the Magic: Aurora Photography Tips
Many visitors naturally want to photograph the northern lights, but this specialized type of night photography presents unique challenges. Here are my tried-and-tested tips for capturing impressive aurora images:
Essential Equipment
- Camera: A DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual settings is ideal
- Lens: A wide-angle lens with a fast aperture (f/2.8 or wider)
- Tripod: Absolutely essential for the long exposures needed
- Extra batteries: Cold temperatures drain batteries quickly
- Remote shutter release: Helps prevent camera shake
- Headlamp: Preferably with a red light option to preserve night vision
Camera Settings
Start with these baseline settings and adjust as needed:
- Mode: Manual
- Format: RAW (provides more editing flexibility later)
- Aperture: As wide as your lens allows (f/2.8 or wider)
- Shutter speed: 15-30 seconds (less for very active auroras)
- ISO: Start at 1600 and adjust based on conditions
- White balance: Auto or 3200-4000K
- Focus: Manual, set to infinity (∞) or slightly before
Composition Tips
While it's tempting to point your camera straight up at the lights, the most compelling aurora photographs often include some foreground elements to provide scale and context. Consider including:
- Silhouettes of trees or mountains
- A cabin with warm window light
- A frozen lake surface for reflections
- A person gazing upward (using a brief flash or headlamp to illuminate them)
Cold Weather Precautions
Photography in Yukon winter conditions requires some special considerations:
- Allow your camera to acclimate to the cold gradually to prevent internal condensation
- Keep spare batteries in an inside pocket close to your body heat
- Bring chemical hand warmers to keep your fingers functioning
- Consider using a lens hood to prevent frost buildup
- Be careful not to exhale directly on your viewfinder or lens, as your breath will freeze instantly
Cultural Dimensions: Indigenous Perspectives on the Northern Lights
For thousands of years before scientific explanations emerged, Indigenous peoples of the North created rich mythologies to explain the aurora. In Yukon First Nations traditions, these stories vary by cultural group but often share common elements.
Among the Gwich'in people of the northern Yukon, the lights are believed to be the spirits of the departed playing a game similar to soccer with a walrus skull. Making too much noise—especially whistling—while the aurora is active is considered disrespectful and might draw the attention of these spirits.
For the Southern Tutchone people, whose traditional territory includes the Whitehorse area, the lights represent pathways to the next world. Elders speak of how a bright aurora night might signify someone's spirit beginning its journey.
Learning about these traditional perspectives adds a profound cultural dimension to the aurora viewing experience. Several Indigenous-led tour operators in the Yukon offer specialized northern lights experiences that include traditional storytelling, often accompanied by tea made from locally harvested plants and stories passed down through generations.
Practical Tips for Your Aurora Expedition
Dressing for Success
The key to enjoying the northern lights is staying warm enough to remain outside for extended periods. The layering technique is essential:
- Base layer: Merino wool or synthetic materials that wick moisture
- Mid layer: Fleece or down for insulation
- Outer layer: Windproof and waterproof jacket and pants
- Extremities: Insulated boots rated to at least -30°C, wool socks, liner gloves under mittens, and a hat that covers your ears
Managing Expectations
The northern lights are a natural phenomenon and never guaranteed. Even during peak season with perfect weather conditions, solar activity might be too low to produce visible auroras. I always advise travelers:
- Plan for at least three nights of aurora watching if possible
- Choose a destination with enjoyable daytime activities
- Download an aurora forecast app to track activity
- Remember that cameras can capture colors and details that may be fainter to the naked eye
Tour or Independent Travel?
While independent travelers can certainly see the northern lights on their own, guided tours offer several advantages:
- Local knowledge of microclimate conditions and viewing spots
- Transportation on unfamiliar winter roads
- Heated shelter and hot beverages during viewing
- Photography assistance and sometimes equipment loans
- Educational commentary about both scientific and cultural aspects
Beyond the Lights: Complementary Yukon Experiences
Since aurora viewing requires nighttime hours, your days are free to explore other aspects of Yukon culture and wilderness:
Dog Sledding
The traditional mode of winter transportation remains a thrilling way to experience the Yukon wilderness. Day trips allow you to drive your own team of dogs along forest trails, while multi-day expeditions can take you deep into the backcountry, staying in remote cabins where aurora viewing conditions are unparalleled.
Ice Fishing
Join local guides to cut a hole through thick lake ice and try your hand at catching Arctic grayling, lake trout, or northern pike. Many operators provide heated shelters and cook your catch on portable stoves for the freshest possible meal.
Snowshoeing
Traverse pristine winter landscapes at a contemplative pace, following trails through snow-laden forests and across frozen meadows. The rhythmic crunch of snowshoes is meditative, and the silence of the winter wilderness is profound.
Cultural Exploration
Visit the Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre in Whitehorse to learn about Yukon First Nations heritage through art, stories, and artifacts. The MacBride Museum offers fascinating exhibits on the Klondike Gold Rush, which transformed the territory in the late 1890s.
